Above Ecliff St Rose. Photo by Mark Lyndersay.

Ecliff St Rose answered some questions about shaving procedure for my second column on shaving, There will be blood.

Q: Shave soap or shave cream?

Well, it’s mostly a matter of preference and what you feel comfortable with, but a good quality soap or cream must have long lasting lather. I personally use Proraso, a brand from Italy. I’ve tried others, including Van Der Hagen, but its most consistent lathering soap and cream.

Proper prep is the key. Washing your face with warm water and placing a warm towel (on the shaving area) helps in softening hair and opening pores.
It’s even recommended that shaving lather should also be applied warm and you should try to maintain that temperature throughout the shave.

The one thing you should always pay attention to is prep. We are not in a rush and take our time through that process.

Q: Straight razor, safety razor, single blade razor or cartridge razor? Are there any brands that you hold in high esteem?

For those who want an alternative to a straight razor, I recommend using a safety razor with a single edge. I’m not a fan of muti-blade razors because every stroke made is multiplied by the amount of blades in each cartridge. If the hair is too long, use a clipper/ trimmer to cut as close a possible before shaving.

In my profession, because we use one blade per person and to be cost effective, we use the more affordable brands like Astra, Darco and Personna.
But the best razor blade brands come from Japan and Germany.

Q: Aftershave. Yes or no? I’m a no person, but that’s partly because I shave head and face several times a week.

Proper aftershave helps to calm the skin after shaving leaving a fresh feeling.

Q: So, not just a great smell then? What are the characteristics of a proper aftershave from the point of view of a barber?

A good aftershave is low in alcohol and has more essential oils.
Use a cold towel or rinse with cold water right after shaving to close the pores before using a astringent.

Q: If there I one single thing that ensures quality, safe shaves on a regular basis, what would that be?

You should know the direction your hair grows in and keep the skin surface lubricated throughout the process
If you know you have an issue with bumps, we shave with the grade. Other than that, the first pass of the shave with the grade and the second pass against it, but we must reapply more shaving cream.